| In The Footsteps Of The Trailblazers |
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This month we celebrate Passover,
the festival of freedom, and then Remembrance Day for our fallen soldiers and
Independence Day, so what better time to salute courage, perseverance, hopes
and dreams? (And take in all the natural beauties of spring?)
This tour is in the vicinity of
Jerusalem, and can take an entire day, half a day or a couple of hours, so it
is suitable as a ‘mini-tour’ for those with little time to spare. It gives the
visitor an added insight into the fierce battles for the possession of Jerusalem
when it was under siege and cut
off from the rest of the country before and during independence.
We start our tour with a visit to
the Paratroopers’ Memorial (“Lighter than Eagles, Braver than Lions”) and then
visit a nearby moshav to see the biggest collection of cacti in Israel, in
their resplendent spring flowering.
We then head east to Hulda
Forest, where we can park the car and take a short hike (or ride bicycles if
arranged in advance).
Hulda was established in 1905,
one of the first lands to be purchased by KKL, and a farm for training workers
was founded next to Herzl’s House. (The house of Benjamin Zeev Herzl, who
prophesied that there would be a Jewish homeland in Israel, is currently
undergoing renovations, and there is an exhibition of artefacts and a movie).
The fighting of 1929 claimed the
lives of Efraim Czisik an his sister Sara, and there is a memorial to them and
other fallen fighers, created by the sculptress Batya Lishansky. In 1931 a new
group of settlers started rebuilding the site, and the farm and forest served
as a training base for the Haganah and a base for the fighters in one of the
most fierce battles of the period – over the road to Jerusalem. These fighters
also managed to lay the beginning of a water line to the besieged city. Hulda
was eventually moved to a different site.
The sites in the area are
continually being updated, and we can visit several sites from the attempts to
break the siege on Jerusalem, such as Bab el Wad (the Gate to the Valley),
where the rusted remains of military vehicles of the period were left as a
reminder, and Latroun, which was a Jordanian outpost and the scene of several
bloody battles.
We then turn east to the ancient
Jewish settlement of Kfar Uriah. Founded in 1912, it was destroyed during the
War of Independence and resettled only after the war. We can see the yard of
the Ben-Zion settlers, among them such mythological figures as A.D. Gordon and
and Yitzhak Tabenkin.
And on in a northeasterly
direction, to Mitzpe Harel (Rabin Park), the base of the famed Harel Brigade,
whose fighters managed to find their way from Jerusalem, which was completely
cut off during the 1948 war, past the Jordanian legionnaires and down to the
plain and to Hulda. The path they took was later to become the legendary “Burma
Way”, through which they managed to smuggle arms and supplies to the
beleaguered city.
Stopping for a view of the
Latroun monastery and police station (and if you like, a relaxing pause at the
Bedouin tent nearby), we make our way by car and on foot in the footsteps of
the trailblazers of the Burma Way. Travelling through the shady forest, we stop
at the spot where fighters from the Palmah-Harel Brigade met two jeeps
travelling towards Jerusalem on the night of the 28 May 1948, the day the way
to Jerusalem was forged.
Depending on the time available,
we can stop at several observation points: Latroun,
the Burma Way and Bab el Wad
observation points, where we can learn more about the battles and heroes of the
period. We can then go on to the “Hill of Figs” where the trailblazers toiled
to bring up supplies and arms, with the help of jeeps, mules and camels, and
also on the backs of hundreds of volunteers. There are several memorials to
various military units, including the Mahal – the Overseas Volunteers’ Unit,
whose fighters battled alongside their Israeli brothers.
This tour provides some of the
modern history of our fascinating country, stories from which have already
become legends.
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